The new book Red Carpet Oscars by Dijanna Mulhearn looks beyond the glamour to discover the evolution of celebrity red-carpet fashion. With a foreword by Cate Blanchett and a letter from Giorgio Armani, Red Carpet Oscars is the ultimate photographic history of Hollywood fashion through the ages.

"I'm thrilled about this book and its great response from all around the world," Dijanna tells Adam Heath. "This book is about sartorial semiotics, or the signs and signals we receive through clothing. Here are some outfits I feel made important statements over the last 94 years of the Oscars."
Words by Elizabeth Clarke

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Dijanna's favourite Oscars looks.

1939: Bette Davis' fabulous feathered gown
Bette Davis uses her second Best Actress win to make a statement. Having studied to play Queen Elizabeth I, she used the traditional tropes of royal dressing to position herself as Hollywood royalty. At a time when modest bias-cut dresses were in vogue, Davis donned the full skirt, tight bodice, and stand-up collar, albeit in feathers, to emulate the great Queen. 
ALTUZZARA
Wrangel Dress in Black
ULLA JOHNSON
Emi Dress in Black 
MATTEAU
Shirred Triangle Dress in Black

 

 

1975: Lauren Hutton in Halston

Colour came in the form of model Lauren Hutton wearing Halston, who graced the red carpet in a flowing Grecian-style gown of chiffon jersey. By now America’s pre-eminent fashion designer, Halston took a shape that oozed classic glamour and in his inimitable way showered it in a rainbow of pastel hues and a metallic sliver at the waist proving the right dress needs no further embellishment.

ULLA JOHNSON
Carine Dress in Tuberose
ISABEL MARANT
Amily Sandals in Metalic Pink
ISABEL MARANT
Bobi Small in Lame Rose

 

 

1986: Cher in Bob Mackie

Possibly the most jaw-dropping outfit to ever grace the Oscar stage belongs to Cher. An innovative risk taker since her first Oscars appearance in 1968, this outfit co-designed with Bob Mackie had a distinct purpose. Despite winning the Best Actress award at the 1985 Cannes Film Festival, the Academy had not nominated Cher for an Oscar. Cher refused to be ignored, and when invited to present the award for Best Supporting Actor the following year, she instructed designer Bob Mackie to make something wild. Mackie tapped into Cher's signature flair, and as Cher urged him to go wilder, Mackie himself at one point suggested that it was too much, but Cher responded that it wasn't. Taking the stage, Cher eclipsed every other star at the ceremony and forced the Academy to take her seriously. Two years later, Cher would claim the Best Actress Oscar for Moonstruck (1987) 

ALTUZZARA
Ramla Dress in Black
ISABEL MARANT
Gilalbi Dress in Black
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Embellished QU133 Heel

 

 

1997: Nicole Kidman in Dior

Enchanted by the quality and creativity of John Galliano’s debut Dior collection, Nicole Kidman selected ‘Absinthe’, a gown inspired by Peking Opera costumes. The gown’s unusual chartreuse colour, trimmed in mink and tassels and lavished with hand embroidery polarised the media. Stylist (and later designer) L’Wren Scott picked up the colours in the intricate embroidery and matched them with pale blue satin Manolo Blahnik slingback kitten heels and pearl-encrusted gold jewellery. Despite Joan Rivers bellowing the gown was ‘the ugliest dress I’ve ever seen’ it has since been called ‘a landmark moment for both designer and wearer’. These harsh remarks from Rivers are linked to a turning point in red-carpet fashion when risks became calculated and anything remotely original in the way of self-styling was replaced by professional advice and safe sartorial choices to please a mainstream audience. But with it came another fashion shift as Kidman stamped a new breed of haute couture on Hollywood and kept herself and husband Tom Cruise in the red-carpet limelight.

LA DOUBLEJ
La Scala Top with Feathers in Margarita

LA DOUBLEJ
Hendrix Pants in Margarita

DRIES VAN NOTEN
Necklace in Gold

  

 

2002: Halle Berry in Elie Saab

It was an emotionally charged Oscars as America was reeling from the devastation of 9/11, and the anticipation that the winds of change would sweep into the Awards was palpable. Could this be the benchmark year to acknowledge African Americans and demonstrate some parity towards praiseworthy members of the Black acting community? For Halle Berry, being the first Black woman to take out the Best Actress win would signify much more than recognition by her industry; it would mean breaking through a historic race barrier. For this moment, Berry wore a one-of-a-kind burgundy gown by then-little-known designer Elie Saab. The embroidered sheer top allowed her burnished skin to shine through in a year, poignant for recognising black talent with a floral and vine motif combined with the illusion of nudity recalling the Garden of Eden and the first woman in the creationist narrative. The dress sent subliminal messages and catapulted Saab into global fashion consciousness.

ISABEL MARANT
Anelia Sandals In Black
THE VAMPIRE'S WIFE
The Nightflight Dress
MARNI
Toggle Small Bag in Black

 

 

2022: Timothee Chalamet in Louis Vuitton

A new generation stamps its style on The Oscars with fashion favourite Timothee Chalamet in a suit plucked from Louis Vuitton's womenswear collection, normalising gender-fluid dressing and proving after decades of the girls borrowing from the boys there's no reason the boys can't borrow from the girls too.

NILI LOTAN
Katherine Sequin Jacket in Black
NILI LOTAN
Yseult Sequins Pant in Black
MARNI
Black Fitted Wool Blazer with Embroidery

 

 Words by Elizabeth Clarke

 

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